Meet the disappearing village of 10 inhabitants in Italy

Founded by the Etruscans, surviving from the Roman era and improved in medieval times, today the village of Civita di Bagnoregio stands imposingly on the horizon of Lazio, central Italy. Picturesque and deeply historic, there is one catch: its days are numbered.

Known as the “dying city,” the town sits atop a hill that has been eroded . Surrounded by valleys, it has become an isolated piece of land over the centuries. The portion of land that connected Civita to its sister town, Bagnoregio , which is a larger and more “firm” town, has eroded away.

What we might consider a natural fatality, however, has become a local charm. One day the village will succumb to the pressure of time and erosion, but we don't know exactly when. The fact is that, for now, we can see this little Italian gem with our own eyes and legs.

That's what I did while filming the 9th season of CNN Travel & Gastronomy in Italy. In addition to the abundant gastronomy and rich history of Rome, I drove around some of the most charming corners of the country – all of this just a short drive from the capital.

There is no shortage of destinations: just 25 kilometers from Rome is Castel Gandolfo , the summer residence of the Popes , which Francis transformed into a museum. Then, Orvieto , in Umbria, made the list for its cathedral, which is worth a detour , and for its magnificent culture and cuisine. So, on this road trip , I came across Civita di Bagnoregio, an ideal getaway from Rome .

Medieval atmosphere

Civita was built on top of tuff , a porous volcanic rock. Beneath the tuff layer are layers of clay, which is also fragile. With the action of water and wind, the village suffers from the relentless force of erosion. What we see today is the result of many centuries.

Located 120 kilometers north of Rome, a journey that takes about two hours, the village is accessed exclusively via a pedestrian walkway. There is parking near the access ramp and, from down below, you can already feel the power of this destination.

Reaching the only entrance, Porta Santa Maria , requires good legs and stamina, but the climb is rewarding. The monumental gate was one of several entrances that existed in the past, until, due to the damage caused by erosion and earthquakes, only this one remained.

Dug by the Etruscans over 2,500 years ago, it was decorated with a Romanesque arch in the 12th century and today functions as a kind of passage to another time. As we enter the cobbled streets, we are transported back to the Middle Ages, which sets the tone for what we will find ahead.

The historic buildings remain as they were despite the test of time. Captivating from every angle, Civita di Bagnoregio can easily be visited in just one day due to its size: it is approximately 150 meters long by 90 meters wide.

The population is also small. It is estimated that around 10 people live permanently in the village, a number that increases in the summer. Despite this, hundreds of travelers come in every day to help with the flow of people and maintain local businesses.

What to do in Civita di Bagnoregio

Medieval towers, stone houses, a central church and narrow streets without car traffic are a summary of the village, where the hands of the clock seem to have stopped.

The main square, Piazza San Donato , is the heart of the village, where festivals and processions begin and where the past is honored. Here stands the Church of San Donato , originally built in the 5th century in the Romanesque style. Remodeled in the 16th century with a Renaissance façade, it was damaged by an earthquake in the following century. Today, you can see Italian Renaissance frescoes and relics inside.

It is worth mentioning that the church was originally the seat of the region's bishopric, but due to earthquakes and soil erosion, mainly at the end of the 17th century, the seat was transferred to the neighboring town of Bagnoregio.

In Civita, rather than visiting the old church, the ideal is to repeat a classic Italian formula: walking aimlessly is the best way to feel the atmosphere and come across small gardens, terraces, shops and restaurants.

Either way, we come across views from the lookout , which presents us with irresistible landscapes of the surroundings. If you get hungry, some cantinas and osterias set up tables in the alleys on sunnier days and serve the unbeatable Italian combo: sausages, pasta and local wines.

To understand a little more about the characteristics of the fragile soil, the Geological Museum , in Piazza de San Donato, is a cultural tour that teaches about the natural risks that the village faces.

With clear signs in the town center, it is also possible to walk a few steps and reach the area known as Antica Civita , an exhibition space in caves inside the rock. For the symbolic price of one euro (around R$6.40) we see olive presses, tools, plows and barrels, objects that reveal rural traditions since the time of the Etruscans.

And a curiosity for soap opera fans: Civita di Bagnoregio was used as the location for the opening scenes of the soap opera “Esperança”, created by Benedito Ruy Barbosa and Walcyr Carrasco, broadcast by TV Globo between 2002 and 2003.

Tips for visiting Civita di Bagnoregio

• There is an entrance fee to the village. The current price is around 5 euros , approximately R$32. The ticket can be purchased at the ticket office located in the area before the bridge leading to Civita;
• To get to Bagnoregio, it is best to use your car. However, it is possible to make a combined trip by train and bus from Rome. From the capital, there are trains to Orvieto, and from Orvieto you need to take a bus to Bagnoregio. This option takes longer and the logistics require organization, paying attention to train and bus schedules;
• Always check the weather forecast and prefer to visit the village on clear days. The experience is much more pleasant and timely than on foggy or rainy days;
• In addition to Civita, take the opportunity to explore Bagnoregio, the sister city. Go to Piazza Cavour , the main square, with its shops, cafés and friendly local life; and visit the Church of San Nicola , with its religious art and historical artifacts, such as a 12th-century parchment bible and a gold and silver reliquary;
• If you have time, plan a quick trip to Orvieto by car or bus. For me, it is one of the most pleasant destinations in Italy.

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