How the Arabs influenced the cuisine of Paraíba

The search for Brazilian flavors inevitably comes across the culinary traditions of the Northeast . The mix of spices and historical heritage with a touch of Brazilian creativity results in extremely appetizing dishes, punctuated by the work of communities and small producers.

For the special season CNN Travel & Gastronomy: Flavors of Brazil , I took a quick dive into what we can call northeastern cuisine, with a selection of flavors and ingredients from the states of Maranhão and Bahia .

But a third territory entered the radar and surprised me with the range of culinary delights : Paraíba . Home to almost 4 million inhabitants, the state enchants beyond the paradisiacal coastline , going from the backlands, passing through the Cariri and reaching the sertão, for example.

One of the best-kept wonders is precisely its cuisine, which is also influenced by indigenous and African roots . It blends with northeastern cuisine, but maintains irresistible particularities.

Onildo Rocha and the armorial kitchen

To delve a little deeper into the culinary world that makes up Paraíba, there's nothing better than having the company of chef Onildo Rocha , a Paraíba native who carries the traditions of his land in his heart — and stomach.

Born in João Pessoa , he helps translate Paraíba to the rest of the country, especially São Paulo, while traveling around Brazil in search of our flavors and ingredients. And how does he put the Northeast on the plate?

“Through wealth and diversity. Each region has its own influence, and Paraíba also has a very strong Arab influence . They hid a lot in the backlands when they were being persecuted. So we have this influence of spices and we use cumin a lot, for example,” says the chef as he invades his kitchen.

The fruits of this work can be enjoyed at Notiê , a restaurant in the center of São Paulo recommended by the Michelin Guide and which operates in seasons , each one guided by regional flavors and biomes. One of the seasons was “Sertões”, in which the chef served, for example, a reinterpretation of couscous with goat, a dish easily found at Paraíba markets.

Cooked at a low temperature, the goat was glazed with roti and served with grilled baby carrots on a tomato passata. The dish was served with couscous in a couscous maker made by artisans from Itabaiana, Paraíba.

It is clear that the chef takes popular elements from the state and transforms them into haute cuisine. One of the most interesting points is that he brings to the kitchen none other than Ariano Suassuna , an intellectual from Paraíba and author of the play “O Auto da Compadecida”.

It was in literature, through Ariano, that I was able to find Cozinha Armorial, which derives from the Manifesto Armorial. Thus, I found a definition for my cuisine, which is to elevate northeastern cuisine from the popular to the erudite.

Onildo Rocha

It was in the 1970s that Suassuna founded the movement, whose legacy is to create erudite art from elements of popular culture . Soon, the chef borrows this concept proposed by Suassuna and places it at the center of the table with the help of gastronomy.

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