Beyond Rolex and the Swatch Group. Who's Shaping the Luxury Watch Market?
My favorite watch brand belongs to the Richemond group. What about yours? Have you ever wondered about this? If not, here's a guide to which companies own which watch brands.
The Swatch Group is a Swiss conglomerate established in 1983 that played a key role in revitalizing the Swiss watch industry after the quartz crisis of the 1970s and 1980s. Founded by Nicolas Hayek, the group's primary goal was to consolidate the market and introduce modern production technologies. Today , the Swatch Group is the world's largest watch manufacturer, owning 16 brands (as I described in my article on watch curiosities).
The company remains listed on the Swiss stock exchange, with part of its shares controlled by the Hayek family.
Brands included in the Swatch Group:
Breguet,
Harry Winston,
Blancpain,
Glashütte Original,
Jaquet Droz,
Omega,
Longines,
Glad,
Union Glashütte,
Tissot,
Balmain,
Certina,
Mido,
Hamilton,
Swatch
Flik Flak.
Swatch Group / Press Materials
Richemont Group
Founded in 1988 by South African billionaire Johann Rupert, Richemont Group specializes in luxury products, particularly fashion, watches, and jewelry. Headquartered in Switzerland, the company is listed on the SIX Swiss Exchange. Richemont brands include:
A. Lange & Söhne,
Baume & Mercier,
Cartier,
IWC Schaffhausen,
Jaeger-LeCoultre,
Panerai,
Piaget,
Roger Dubuis,
Vacheron Constantin,
Van Cleef & Arpels,
Montblanc.
LVMH
LVMH (Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton) is a world leader in the luxury goods industry, founded in 1987 following the merger of Louis Vuitton and Moët Hennessy. Led by Bernard Arnault , one of the world's richest men, the company also includes prestigious watch brands. The LVMH Group's brands include:
TAG Heuer,
Hublot,
Zenith,
Bvlgari (including the Gerald Genta and Daniel Roth watch lines),
Louis Vuitton (watch line),
Tiffany & Co. (watch line)
LVMH Group / press materials
Sowind Group
Sowind Group is a Swiss watch company that currently operates the Ulysse Nardin and Girard-Perregaux brands. In 2022, after being sold by the Kering Group, Sowind became an independent entity, led by Patrick Pruniaux.
Seiko Group
Seiko Group is a Japanese giant with a history dating back to 1881, when founder Kintarō Hattori opened his first watch shop. Seiko pioneered quartz technology, transforming the watchmaking landscape worldwide. The Seiko Group is actually composed of three companies: Seiko Holding Corporation (responsible for watches), Seiko Instruments, and Seiko Epson Corporation.
Brands included in the Group
Seiko: Seiko,
Grand Seiko,
Credor,
Orient.
Citizen Group
Citizen Group is one of the world's largest watchmakers, known for innovative technologies like Eco-Drive. The company's history dates back to 1918 and its headquarters is located in Tokyo. You'll be surprised by the brands (besides Citizen, of course) it boasts.
Brands included in the Citizen Group:
Citizen (including the Campanola line),
Bulova,
Frederique Constant,
Alpina,
Arnold & Son.
Independent watch brands
The final group is a group of watch brands that… don't belong to any of the groups.Independent watch brands play a significant role in the industry, combining traditional craftsmanship with modern innovation. Therefore, it's worth knowing them. Of course, these aren't all the companies, but I wanted to show you the most popular and interesting ones, in my opinion.
Patek Philippe
Patek Philippe is a Swiss brand founded in 1839, known for its masterful craftsmanship and watches with complex mechanisms. The company has been owned by the Stern family since 1932, and its models often set auction records (as I wrote about here, in an article about the best watches). I also mentioned Patek Philippe here, writing about its Polish founder.
Patek Philippe Grand Complications ref. 5236P / press materials
Audemars Piguet
Audemars Piguet, headquartered in Le Brassus, Switzerland, is a luxury watchmaker founded in 1875. The brand is best known for its Royal Oak line.Audemars Piguet remains in the hands of its founding family and is controlled by the descendants of Jules Louis Audemars and Edward Auguste Piguet.
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar ref. 26574BC.OO.1220BC.01 / press materials
Rolex
Founded in 1905, Rolex is one of the most famous and popular watchmakers, a symbol of prestige and precision. An undisputed sales leader, it hardly needs much introduction. Interestingly, it is owned by the non-profit Hans Wilsdorf Foundation.
Tudor—founded in 1926 as a sister brand to Rolex —offers watches with a similar heritage and quality, but at more affordable prices. One of the brand's most popular and highly regarded watches is the Black Bay line. Like Rolex, Tudor is owned by the Hans Wilsdorf Foundation.
Tudor Black Bay 54 ref. m79000n-0001 / press materials
Breitling
Founded in 1884, Breitling is a watch brand known for its advanced chronographs and ties to aviation, such as the iconic Navitimer.
As for the ownership, on December 23, 2022, Partners Group, a Swiss investment and equity firm, acquired a majority stake in Breitling from CVC. Partners Group co-founder Alfred Gantner assumed the position of Breitling's chairman of the board. At the end of 2023, Breitling announced the acquisition of Universal Genève, with the aim of reviving this beloved watch brand.
FP Journe, founded by François-Paul Journe in 1999, is an exclusive brand recognized for its refined and innovative designs. Its motto, "Invenit et Fecit" (French for "invented and executed"), underscores the brand's unique approach and independence.
FP Journe QUANTIÈME PERPÉTUEL - Ref. QP / press materials
Parmigiani Fleurier
Founded in 1996 by Michel Parmigiani,Parmigiani Fleurier specializes in luxury watches. The brand is distinguished by its high level of craftsmanship and attention to detail, such as the guilloché dials with a Grain d'orge pattern (which I wrote about in more detail here). Parmigiani Fleurier is part of the Sandoz Family Foundation, allowing it to operate as an independent manufacturer under the foundation's patronage.
Founded relatively recently in 2004, Greubel Forsey is renowned for its highly complex movements (such as multi-axis tourbillons) and limited production runs. It is also distinguished by its unique style. Currently, Robert Greubel is the chairman of the board and majority shareholder, Antonio Calce is the CEO and a member of the board, and Stephen Forsey is the technical expert. Between them, they hold all the shares in Greubel Forsey.
Grönefeld, run by brothers Tim and Bart Grönefeld , is known for producing technically advanced, limited-edition watches.
Grönefeld 1941 Grönograaf / press materials
H. Moser & Cie
H. Moser & Cie is an independent brand founded in 1828 that has gained renewed notoriety for its contemporary models with minimalist designs and handmade movements. It is renowned for its bold design approach and its satirical take on the "Swiss Made" emblem. Since 2012, H. Moser & Cie. has been part of the Swiss holding group MELB, owned by the Meylan family.
Laurent Ferrier is a brand born from its founder's passion for classic watchmaking. What can I say? These watches are characterized by elegant, timeless design. The brand remains an independent manufacturer, owned by Laurent Ferrier, a former engineer and professional watchmaker.
De Bethune was founded in 2002. It stands out for its futuristic approach to watchmaking, which is clearly reflected in its design. De Bethune is owned by investor Pierre Jacques and Denis Flageol, who co-founded the brand. The company remains independent.
De Bethune DB27 Titan Hawk JPS / Press Material
Richard Mille
Richard Mille is a brand founded in 2001 that has gained notoriety for its innovative designs and advanced material technologies. It is owned and controlled by Richard Mille.
Richard Mille Automatic Winding Flyback Chronograph Le Mans Classic ref. RM 72-01 FQ/PR01 / press materials
MB&F (Maximilian Büsser & Friends)
MB&F is a brand known for its experimental and artistic watch designs. Founded by Maximilian Büsser (and still owned by him), the brand collaborates with independent artists and watchmakers to create unique, limited-edition models that are perhaps more futuristic works of art than traditional timepieces. Currently, Chanel, among others, owns shares in the brand.
MB&F / press materials
Nomos Glashütte
At the other extreme, in terms of design, is Nomos Glashütte. This independent watch brand is based in the German city of Glashütte , known as the center of German watchmaking. It was founded by Roland Schwertner in January 1990 , two months after the fall of the Berlin Wall. Nomos stands out for its minimalist design inspired by the Bauhaus style.
Chronoswiss is owned by the Swiss business family Ebstein. Oliver Ebstein is CEO. Known for its luxury mechanical watches,Chronoswiss maintains the character of an independent family business while cultivating the traditions of Swiss watchmaking.
Jacob & Co is a luxury watch and jewelry brand founded in 1986 by Jacob Arabo. The company is headquartered in New York City. Jacob & Co is known for its bold designs, attracting celebrities, athletes, and jewelry lovers worldwide. So, if you're looking for quiet luxury… this isn't the place for you. The brand specializes in sophisticated watches with advanced complications, such as the Astronomia model, which features rotating mechanisms on different axes, creating a cosmic spectacle on the wrist.
Billionaire Timeless Treasure model / photo: Jacob & Co. press materials
Louis Moinet
The last of the independent brands I'd like to tell you about: Louis Moinet is a luxury watch brand that traces its roots to the 19th-century work of Louis Moinet , inventor of the chronograph and a talented watchmaker. Currently, the brand has been revived and continued by Jean-Marie Schaller, who serves as its CEO. The company operates as an independent manufacturer.
Louis Moinet ASTRONEF ref. LM-105.50.60 / press materials
That's all for now. I must confess that I haven't mentioned three watch groups: Movado (USA), Citychamp (Hong Kong), and Festina (Spain). This is because they have a lot of fashion brands in their portfolio. However, there are also some "classics" that are definitely worth considering.
The former group includes brands like Movado and Ebel. Citychamp owns Corum and Eterna, and Festina owns Perrelet watches, among others.
Swatch Group / Press Materials
LVMH Group / press materials
Patek Philippe Grand Complications ref. 5236P / press materials
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar ref. 26574BC.OO.1220BC.01 / press materials
Rolex Cosmograph Daytona ref. 126500LN / press materials
Tudor Black Bay 54 ref. m79000n-0001 / press materials
Breitling Chronomat B01 42 ref. AB0134101K1S1 / press materials
FP Journe QUANTIÈME PERPÉTUEL - Ref. QP / press materials
Parmigiani Fleurier TONDA PF GREGORIAN ANNUAL CALENDAR Ref. PFC907-1020001-100182 / press materials
Greubel Forsey Tourbillon 24 Secondes Architecture / press materials
Grönefeld 1941 Grönograaf / press materials
H. Moser & Cie Pioneer Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton ref. 3811-1200 / press materials
Laurent Ferrier Classic Micro-Rotor "Evergreen" ref. LCF004.R5.VR1 / press kit
De Bethune DB27 Titan Hawk JPS / Press Material
Richard Mille Automatic Winding Flyback Chronograph Le Mans Classic ref. RM 72-01 FQ/PR01 / press materials
MB&F / press materials
Nomos Glashütte Tangente Ref. 101 / press materials
Chronoswiss ReSec Obsidian Manufacture ref. CH-6925T.1R-BKGO / press materials
Billionaire Timeless Treasure model / photo: Jacob & Co. press materials
Louis Moinet ASTRONEF ref. LM-105.50.60 / press materials
