Les Tontons: the brasserie that (finally) awakens the taste buds of Neuilly-sur-Seine

As true as it is nicknamed "the ^21st arrondissement of Paris" and referred to as "Gotha City," Neuilly honestly doesn't shine with its appetite. At the table, it shares with its geography the fact that it suddenly becomes very peripheral. A sort of spoiled slacker for whom no excuses are found. Yet, at least it seems, the public has the map and the codes, the streets are pretty, the avenues long, everything is there but nothing is right.

Apart from a good Corsican ( Pinzutu ), a respectable bistro (La Table des Oliviers) and the nostalgia for leg of lamb at Sébillon , the great cafés are tough, the exotics are limp and the institutions ( Livio , Durand-Dupont ) are laughable. In Le Petit Nicolas (the real one), Neuilly would be this incorrigible Geoffroy whose father "earns piles and piles of money", but who applies himself to collecting bubbles and glues.

Also read Casa Cardito, in Neuilly-sur-Seine, a restaurant that has succeeded in its gamble

Given this application in laziness and pathos, we therefore no longer expected much from these Tontons announced in terms of bistro value and revealed in volume...