Clos Vauban, the new Michelin-starred adventure of chef Laurent Petit in Langres

Do you know Langres? Neither did we, before April 16th. It's a shame because this pretty sub-prefecture of Haute-Marne, perched on an oppidum and the birthplace of the great Diderot, is worth a visit. But it must be admitted that in the collective imagination, it's not the Venice of the Grand Est. Nor the cradle of a dizzying culinary alchemy, apart from a renowned cheese that proudly bears (in taste) the name of the city and allows the locals - they are lucky enough to find it in its unripened version - to make "quemeu tart", a specialty duly listed in the Culinary Encyclopedia of the Territories of France by chef Jean-François Piège (Hachette cuisine).

But curious gourmets will now have to head to Langres, as a highly recommended establishment opened its doors there at the end of 2024, within the walls of an 18th- ^century mansion near the ramparts. Before we get to the dishes—and what dishes—a quick word from the…