Dutch destinations: venture back into the Veluwe

Wilderness is a rarity in the Netherlands. This rambling stretch of heathland and forests in Gelderland is about as close as it gets to wide open spaces in this corner of the world. Explore the Veluwe’s trails or visit one the many quaint towns along its edges.

The first word that might spring to mind when you think of the Veluwe these days is ‘wolf’. While their return to the region has captured headlines in recent years, recent research shows the wolves would rather chomp on a juicy deer than the cyclists, hikers, and horseriders who frequent its extensive network of trails.

Ultimately, you’re more likely to spot a beetle in the Veluwe or any number of the dozens of different types of birds that call the region home. Be sure to also keep your eyes peeled for foxes, Scottish highlander cows, wild boar, and the occasional frog.

But if the weather isn’t cooperating and the chances of getting bogged down in mud is higher than kicking up some dust, aim for one of the area’s many towns or museums. Rain or shine, anytime of the year, there’s plenty in the Veluwe to keep you busy for a weekend or longer.

Five things to do

Adjust your schedule You’ll need to get up early or stay out late if you want to increase your chances of spotting wildlife, especially the Veluwe’s larger residents. They tend to be most active at dawn or dusk, but you might get lucky. On a recent trek in May, we encountered a family of wild boar at high noon. The adults grunted at us before dashing through the thicket with their four piglets.

De Hoge Veluwe, the park that takes up about 5% of the region and is a big draw for many visitors, has an interactive online map that outlines parking areas, birdwatching huts, and where you’ll find the nearest toilets.

Be sure to also check out its website for updates about potential road, entrance, or trail closures in addition to tips about what to do if you actually run into a wolf. A more extensive rundown on the Veluwe’s trails can be found here.

Delve further into the world of Helene Kröller-Müller The Kröller-Müller Museum is one of the Veluwe’s most popular attractions. Less well known is the Jachthuis Sint Hubertus, the former residence of its founder Helene Kröller-Müller which is considered one of the most unique buildings in the country.

Located about four kilometres from the museum, it was designed by architect Hendrikus Petrus Berlage and is best known for an iconic tower that definitely seems out of place alongside the English-style country house below.

Another unusual aspect of the building is the extreme geometric precision that governs everything from the ceilings to the tiles. If you want to have a look at them, you’ll need to book tickets for tours in advance. Reservations are mandatory. Berlage designed everything, from the coat hooks to the tiny bedrooms.

A castle or a rustic estate? You’ll find Kasteel De Cannenburch in the little town of Vaassen. A self-guided tour will lead you through this 16th century castle, which features ornate dining rooms as well as more rustic parlours full of trophies that make it seem more like a hunting lodge.

It fell into an increasingly dire state of disrepair in the early 20th century and was eventually sold to a foundation for the symbolic amount of one guilder in 1951. The castle and grounds were renovated in the some 50 years ago. While you can’t climb into the onion dome attached to the roof, the attic is worth the effort. It features a holographic display with characters climbing in and out of two small paintings.

Go fish If you’ve never tried fishing, you can give it a go at Forellenkwekerij ‘t Smallert which caters to beginners and expert anglers alike. If you don’t have your own equipment, it can be rented and bait is also available.

Originally set up as a trout farm, Forellenkwekerij ‘t Smallert’s operations are now sustainable and feature four spring water ponds stuffed full of trout, salmon, carp, sturgeon, and catfish. One is reserved for catch and release if you’d rather not take a few of them with you. Along with a cafe, and a fish shop where you can purchase dinner if you don’t want to cast a line yourself, there’s also a candle shop. Yes, a candle shop.

Turn up the heat at Veluwse Bron Head to the Veluwse Bron to unwind or sooth any sore muscles from fishing or tromping through the forests. It’s a wellness resort with restaurants, relaxation rooms, bathing pools and, needless to say, saunas.

Calm your aching feet or back in the steam cave. It looks like, well, a cave. There’s also the Pakistani Salt Stone Sauna and it has a mineshaft theme. The walls glow and there’s a mine cart in the centre of the room. The staff also host singing bowl rituals and similar gatherings that seem to be all the rage at day spas lately.

Where to eat Most visitors in the Veluwe stay at camp sites or rental cottages and opt to cook for themselves. There are plenty of small markets and chain grocers like Albert Heijn in nearby towns where you can stock up.

You’re also bound to come across several roadside stands that sell eggs, honey, milk, and other locally produced products. De Pelikaan is worth a stop if you find yourself in Zutphen. It’s a coffee roastery and tea shop that looks much the way it did when it first opened in 1816. And don’t overlook local bakeries like Lokaal Vaassen for pastries and bread.

If you’d rather let someone else do the cooking, try Aroma in Vaassen. It’s an upscale Italian cafe. Onder de Toren is another option over in Nunspeet. They do lunch, dinner, drinks, and have both vegetarian and vegan entrees. De Emsterie in Emst does fine dining and has three, four, and five course meals. Ribhouse Texas Epe is the place to head if you like digging into a steak while surrounded by campy Americana. They’ve even got horse saddle stools lining the bar.

Kids are sure to love Pancake House De Honingpot. It has a playground and an indoor play area with a ball pit that will (hopefully) tucker them out and make the drive back to where you’re staying a little quieter.

The Gortel Rozeboom ice cream truck remains a welcome oasis for everybody from day hikers to groups of bikers all clad in leather. They have dozens of artisanal flavours and we recommend the one made with local duindoorn (sea buckthorn berries).

Where to stay Visit the website Natuurhuisje if you would like to rent a private cottage or a larger house. They have places that are great for both couples, families and bigger groups. Aan Veluwe outside Oosterbeek is one of the many campsites in the area. The Wildhoeve is another near Emst.

If glamping is more your style, have a look at Landgoed Mennorode. They have luxurious tents and there’s a dog-friendly hotel on site as well. Witte Berken outside Epe is a year-round hotel with 30 rooms and a restaurant.

How to get there The Veluwe covers about 1,000 square kilometres of land. Where you’re headed will determine how best to get there and how long it will take. Most opt to go by car, but the more hardy with an electric or road bike may want to consider kicking off the journey with a lengthy cycling trek.

Anything else? The annual sand sculpture festival in Garderen is where to take the kids on a rainy afternoon. The theme for 2025 is the 750th anniversary of Amsterdam and the city’s history has been brought to life in its 150 elaborate sculptures.

Additional tips for your trip can be found in our last Dutch destinations article about Veluwe from September 2020.