Why is everyone suddenly obsessed with Labubu dolls? The surprising story behind the fashion world's latest must-have collectible

How would you spend an eight-hour flight? Sleeping, binge-watching films, or getting nose-deep into a novel are all strong contenders. Two months ago, however, I spent a good chunk of mine being schooled on something far more unexpected: Labubu dolls. And, rather surprisingly, the L-word has come up almost daily since, particularly among my most fashion-savvy friends. So, it’s official: Labubus are the latest—and most in-demand—accessories making their way into the wardrobes (and onto the handbags) of the style set.

For those yet to be introduced to the tiny toys, allow me to relay the intel originally shared by a flight assistant with an impressive collection of her own... Designed by Hong Kong-born artist Kasing Lung in 2015, Labubu is a character from The Monsters story series. Inspired by Nordic mythology, she’s (yes, Labubu is a she) an elf-like figure, complete with pointed ears and serrated teeth, wearing a kooky grin that falls somewhere between sweet and ever-so-slightly scary.

Yet while Labubu’s cult following has been quietly growing for years, it was K-pop superstar and all-round tastemaker Lisa of Blackpink (and The White Lotus) fame who propelled them into fashion’s stratosphere. A self-professed fan, Lisa has been spotted showing off her Labubu dolls to her 106 million followers countless times on Instagram, making fashion fans across the globe immediately take notice.

Now, the tiny toys are the accessory of choice for fashion insiders looking to inject a little playful charm into their luxury line-ups—quite literally. Think Labubus swinging from Hermès Birkin bags and even styled in tiny (faux) Prada outfits. Yes, really... And the way things are going, it won't be long before luxury houses fully lean into making Labubu-specific looks themselves. Seriously—only earlier this month, Valentino gave the toys out as gifts at its Dubai pop-up.

But cool girl Lisa’s love aside, why exactly are these small, slightly spooky toys making such a big splash? According to Professor Carolyn Mair PhD, chartered psychologist and author of The Psychology of Fashion, Labubus tap into a deep emotional need. “Labubus are part of the ‘kidult’ phenomenon, where adults find solace in toys reminiscent of their childhood,” she explains. “Engaging with plush toys like Labubu can release feel-good hormones such as dopamine and serotonin, providing stress relief and a comforting escape from today’s often stressful world.”

There's also the clever packaging factor. Labubu figurines are sold as blind boxes: you don’t know which character you’re getting until you open it, triggering the same dopamine rush associated with gambling wins, explains Mair. The thrill of the reveal, coupled with the chance of scoring a rare or limited-edition piece, keeps fans coming back for more. Plus, when social media feeds are full of Labubu unboxing videos, it’s hard to resist the temptation to take part.

So, if you’re spotting a tiny, sharp-toothed elf peeking out from an influencer’s luxury handbag, tucked into the crook of a polished street style shot or on the arm of a famous face (Dua Lipa is known to be a fan), you know you're in the presence of fashion’s most unexpected new mascot. It’s this surprising contrast—high fashion meets childhood whimsy—that makes the trend feel fresh and joyful, after all.

Tempted to own your own? Pop Mart is the official retailer (beware of dupes), and it even has pop-ups in Selfridges stores across the UK right now. But be quick, the limited-edition drops sell out rather rapidly, so you may have to make your way over to StockX, where, typically, they're being sold for up to ten times the price.

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