The Summer Scent Notes That Smell Like a Holiday in a Bottle
Because there is so much joy to be found in perfumes that feel like bottled sunshine, I’m exploring some of the most iconic summer fragrance notes and the perfumes that capture them, from classic scents to niche perfumes.
7 Scent Notes That Truly Encapsulate Summer 1. Sun Cream
For many of us, no other scent taps into summer nostalgia quite like that of sun cream, so it’s unsurprising that many fragrance houses have imagined iconic scents that perfectly capture the feeling of warm, sun-kissed skin and sun lotion. It’s not just a scent, but a universal summer memory for many of us.
"The gripping aspect of the scent of sunscreen or sun-warmed skin is due to childhood summers, joy and long days spent making memories. Scent and nostalgia are so interlinked, and typically warm, sunny weather (especially in the UK) lifts our mood [and] encourages people to socialise, relax and be happy, allowing solar-profile fragrances to be popular," says fragrance chemistry expert Aamna Lone.
So what is it that makes sun cream smell so good, aside from its nostalgic connotations? "The heart of this scent profile is the solar accord; it’s a bright, luminous blend," says Lone. There are many notes that perfumers tap into to create a sun cream accord—a combination of notes that bring a concept like this to life. "Something key to this composition is benzyl salicylate; a warm, creamy note often paired with ylang-ylang, coconut, tuberose and jasmine—ingredients that emphasise its sunny, slightly tropical character," she says.
If you're seeking a sun-drenched scent, try Tom Ford Soleil Blanc, which is not only private-island-coded but smells like applying an expensive sun cream on salty skin, fresh from a dip in the glittering sea. Kilian's new Sunkissed Goddess kisses the skin with creamy tiare flowers and sun-drenched coconut, whilst Jo Malone Beach Blossom captures the essence of long, lazy beach days and creamy vanilla-spiked sun lotion.
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There's nothing quite like gazing at an endless stretch of blue waters to feel centred. Coastal, marine or salty perfumes can evoke that same sense of calm and serenity you get from spending the day at the beach with your toes in the sand and waves lapping at the shore.
"A well-made marine or oceanic fragrance has the ability to translate the salty, sulphurous smell of the sea," says Lone. "This profile is often built around calone, a signature compound known for its salty, aquatic freshness. This marine accord can be magnified with ozonic notes, which can add a breezy, almost metallic edge," she adds. "Another standout note in this profile is juniper berries, which bring a cool crispness that relays well to the aquatic compositions perfectly."
From bracing waves and salted driftwood to turquoise coves and tranquil waters, coastal notes can tap into different seaside vistas. Jo Malone's iconic Wood Sage & Sea Salt is inspired by the bracing British coastline, rugged cliffs and windswept shores. Orebella’s Salted Muse also uses sea salt to evoke rolling waves, whilst Molton Brown’s Coastal Cypress and Sea Fennel captures the cleansing oceanic breeze. These are salty, mineral-rich and aquatic scents that leave you feeling invigorated.
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Lush, green and on the right side of sweet, fig is the underrated hero of summer’s fruity scents. It brings a creamy greenness to fragrances that makes them feel instantly Mediterranean. Whether it’s the juicy fruit, the creamy, milky flesh or the earthy bark and leaves of the fig tree itself, fig notes lend an effortless sensuality, like linen shirts and dappled late-afternoon shade.
"Fig is used in summer fragrances typically as a standout star," says Lone. "It’s a main character, and other notes act as a supporting element in most cases. Fig-based fragrances remind consumers of the Mediterranean, where the fig tree is native, and as of more recently, fragrances and perfumers are starting to incorporate the fig leaf into fragrance profiles that smell similar to the jammy, salty but milky profile of fig, but are slightly more green," she says. "It complements a lot of people on wear, too. It's versatile and remains linear throughout wear."
If you’re usually put off by saccharine fruity perfumes, fig will feel like a grown-up, elevated option, with its subtle green and creamy sweetness. "Fig has a sweet profile that’s not too cloying in comparison to mango or raspberry," says Lone. Some of the best fig perfumes include Diptyque Philosykos, which is inspired by all parts of the fig tree—fruit, leaf and tree bark included—which instantly transports us to a Greek island. Acqua di Parma's take with Fico Di Amalfi profiles sweet, creamy fig against the backdrop of an Italian coastal postcard, whilst D.S & Durga Debaser gives fig a cool, modern twist with creamy, sun-warmed sandalwood.
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From jasmine to tuberose and gardenia, white floral perfumes are unapologetically seductive. There's a reason why this category of florals is so popular come summer; these creamy, velvety petals melt into the skin to become a sultry sunset scent: warm, golden and totally hypnotic. The fact that many white florals, such as jasmine and tuberose (known as "queen of the night") bloom and release their scent only at night, adds to their sultry summer connotations.
"Tuberose is used as a warm, sweet, milky but stemmy green aspect in summer fragrances. It adds an almost [halo-like] effect, wrapping the wearer in a sunny bubble," says Lone. "Imagine the warm, hazy orange colour of a sunset—that’s the effect tuberose gives in summer fragrances."
Take Maison Crivelli's hypnotic Tuberose Astrale, which was inspired by perfumer Quentin Bisch's memory of being surrounded by the scent of tuberose whilst gazing up at the twinkling stars of the Milky Way. Meanwhile, Diptyque's Do Son pairs creamy jasmine and delicate orange blossom with a coastal summer breeze, whilst Matiere Premiere's French Flower evokes stepping into a Parisian florist at golden hour, surrounded by expensive bouquets.
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Perhaps not the most obvious of summer fragrance notes, but tomato leaf has been enjoying a moment both in home fragrance (clearly, Loewe's tomato summer still reigns) and now it's being blended into perfume, too. Green, herbaceous and slightly bitter, think of an Italian garden at the height of summer and the snap of a sun-ripened tomato vine between your fingers. Tomato leaf-inspired scents are ideal for those who like their fragrances fresh, crisp and a little different from the typical summer scents.
"Tomato leaf is such a distinct smell to summer, and it’s a symbol that marks the season. It’s green, fresh and tart, and when used in summer fragrances, it adds a kitchen-garden vibe," says Lone. "By itself, it is quite wearable, but perfumers tend to pair tomato leaf with woody facets such as sandalwood, cedarwood or even citrus, as it adds a more 'photorealistic' olfactive image of the scent," she says.
If you're ready to embrace these distinctive scents this summer, try Beauty Pie's La Botanista, which pairs tomato leaf with herbaceous rosemary and geranium for a greenhouse vibe. L'Artisan Parfumeur Vétiver Écarlate's lush take on tomato leaf includes zingy grapefruit and smooth, woody vetiver. And for those in their gardening era, Maison Margiela's Replica From The Garden conjures sunny afternoons spent pottering amongst tomato plants.
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We can't talk about summer fragrance notes without spotlighting coconut fragrances. Whilst many of our first experiences with coconut scents are of the sickly sweet variety in our teens, there are now plenty of elevated, grown-up takes. Today’s interpretations are creamier and more complex—think coconut milk and splashes of coconut water over artificial, sugary-sweet iterations. This kind of coconut adds a soft, tropical warmth that conjures sandy toes and slow days spent under swaying beach palms.
"Coconut is the summer note due to the creamy, tropical aroma that is linked to the image of sunny white-sand beaches, palm trees and summer holidays," says Lone. "Coconut also serves in sunscreen manufacturing, further emphasising its summer link. It is key to balance its richness; overly sweet or heavy coconut fragrances can turn cloying in the heat, especially when layered with sugary notes like caramel or raspberry," she says. "Instead, choose compositions with bergamot or grapefruit that have a refreshing effervescence [and a] bubbly, clean effect."
Perhaps the most iconic of all is Estée Lauder Bronze Goddess Eau Fraîche, which our editors agree is one of the best summer perfumes of all time. Radiant and warm, it evokes creamy coconut, sun-kissed skin and the feeling of an endless summer holiday. The balmy breeze of coconut milk in Aerin's Hibicus Palm instantly transports you to days spent dozing under coconut palms, whilst 7 Virtues Coconut Sun combines crunchy sea salt with a burst of citrus and coconut water to quench the thirst of any coconut lover.
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Citrus scents capture the essence of the summer season—they're zesty, sparkling and bursting with energy. From zingy lemon to sun-drenched mandarin and mouthwatering pomelo, citrus notes are the olfactory equivalent of golden hour. They lift everything around them, making any perfume feel brighter, lighter and endlessly wearable in the heat. If you want a scent that wakes you up in the morning—more so than an espresso—this is it.
"Citrus profiles in the summer tend to soar due to their ability to work well in the heat and prevent a cloying aspect. A lot of citrus profiles are affordable and made with fragrance compounds such as citronellol or linalool, so they tend to be used in general fragrances as top notes too," says Lone. "Citrus [evokes] an awakening, refreshed mood, hence the olfactive and therapeutic use in post-spa products or shower gels," she says.
Maison Margiela Replica's latest scent, Never-Ending Summer, takes inspiration from the Amalfi Coast and uses an Italian spritz accord to capture the feeling of a late afternoon apertivo as the sun makes its slow descent. Byredo's Palmero bottles the essence of a Sicilian summer—one spray and you're surrounded by bergamot groves, sipping sparkling water with lemon. Perhaps the most luxury-coded citrus scent belongs to Victoria Beckham Beauty's Portofino '97, which was inspired by her and husband David's escape to the Italian coast in the nineties, with zesty bergamot and the crisp scent of expensive hotel bed sheets.
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