From Subdued to Overstimulated: Glenn Martens Makes His RTW Debut at Margiela
To the sound of a 61-piece children's orchestra (the entirety of which was dressed in dramatically oversized Maison Margiela tuxedos) playing perfectly imperfect renditions of Symphony No. 40 and Beethoven's Moonlight Sonata, Glenn Martens debuted his first co-ed ready-to-wear collection for the Belgian fashion house during Paris Fashion Week. The presentation arrived just three months after the former Diesel creative director showcased his inaugural Artisanal (otherwise referred to as haute couture) collection for Margiela back in July. That collection wasn't for the faint of heart, though at a brand like this one, it was never supposed to be immediately digestible. It was the kind of couture offering that makes you think, sending chills down your spine once you do.
For spring/summer 2026, though, Martens took a simpler approach, continuing some themes from his couture debut, but executing them in a much more pared-back and even practical fashion (see Margiela-ized basics, like trench coats, slip dresses, and leather jackets). He started the show with wearable silhouettes made of denim and leather—all of which were accented with four-stitch mouthpieces resembling the brand's signature non-logo—before eventually leading showgoers toward some more experimental designs. Classic Margiela staples made their return, including the Margiela Futures, a high-top sneaker that got a modern update for 2026, as well as the Tabi Claw, which was first seen in the Artisanal 2025 collection, but has now made its RTW debut with a futuristic plexiglass wedge heel (worn by Kim Kardashian and Kylie Jenner at the show). A new version of the Box Bag is also coming soon, with a softer, slouchier look that's sure to become a staple come spring.
For more on Martens' first Maison Margiela ready-to-wear collection, keep scrolling.
Pieces For EveryoneLike the music playing, there were moments of calm serenity throughout the designer's sartorial unveiling this season, as well as louder, more stimulating components. According to a press release, "concepts and proposals for real life" were the main focus. Tailoring was presented in a handful of different ways, in denim as well as more classic wool, always with touches that feel inherently Margiela. A white button-down shirt was styled with jeans and boots, while a slip dress with tiny lace details was worn with a leather motorcycle jacket. The first 25 or so looks saw a muted color palette be prioritized, and then suddenly, there was a switch. As the collection slowly approached a crescendo, vibrant colors and patterns began to appear on Martens' models. Dresses with uneven hems were printed with clashing floral patterns that were designed to look like peeling 16th-century wallpaper (a concept first introduced in the F/W 25 Artisanal collection), which were seen throughout the latter half of the show, as was "plasticisation," another design technique from couture that was used to make statuesque bodices out of tape. The collection as a whole had moments for everyone, from subdued basics done the Margiela way to gowns designed to evoke a range of emotions.
The orchestra's conductor wore a Maison Margiela suit adorned on the upper back with the house's signature four-stitch "logo," a motif that showed up on every single one of the models who walked the show—but not in the way anyone could have expected. Whether it's on a sweater or a jacket, we usually see the symbol in the same place: the back of the neck. For S/S 26, though, it was seen in the form of almost surgical-looking mouthpieces. According to the show notes, they were used to give models a "uniformity of expression" in order to continue Maison Margiela's long-standing emphasis on anonymity.
There's a new bag coming to the Belgian house, and it's a hit in the making. A new take on the Box Bag, the slouchy shoulder bag has sharp edges that give it a unique look. Even better, it features an ornamental metal trim in brushed silver, giving the bag an antique appeal in today's sea of modern handbag shapes. According to the show notes, the Box Bag can instantly be made into a clutch by tucking the straps inside.
It was a great day for celebrity sightings in Paris on Saturday, with Meghan Markle making her Paris Fashion Week debut at Balenciaga, Ina Garten and her Kelly sitting front row at Hermès, and Kim Kardashian and Kylie Jenner reuniting at Maison Margiela. Kardashian, who debuted her new pixie cut at Alaïa earlier that day, donned a gray trench coat, a collar necklace, and leather boots with a PVC heel. Her younger sister's look was a little less subdued, wearing a sheer camisole and matching tights made of paper (!), which were tucked into a pair of sharp Tabi wedges.
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