Tradition, luxury and desert in the Arab capital that opens up to the world
“So? What is Saudi Arabia like?” a friend asked me as soon as I returned to Buenos Aires. “In terms of scale, Saudi Arabia is to the United Arab Emirates or Qatar what Mexico is to Guatemala,” was the first thing that came to mind. They share many traits, but Saudi Arabia is infinitely larger and more complex. For starters, it's the country that guards two sacred sites for Islam: Mecca, in the western region, about 70 kilometers east of the Red Sea, where the prophet Muhammad was born—only accessible to Muslims—and Medina, about 300 kilometers further north, where he was buried. It's also the most populous country in the Persian Gulf (36 million inhabitants). The discovery of oil in 1938 made it the largest exporter of that hydrocarbon and made it the only Arab country to be a member of the G20, the international forum made up of the world's major economies.
The largest and most representative country in the Gulf is a difficult enigma to decipher, riddled with meanings and symbols that go beyond the Argentine imagination: Aladdin and his magic lamp, the quicksand (which does exist and which the Saudis respect greatly), the epic versions of Lawrence of Arabia, embodied by Peter O'Toole and Omar Sharif, or the most recent event: that they beat us in the first match of the last World Cup, which ended with Argentina being crowned champion in Qatar 2022.
I traveled to Riyadh, the capital and largest city in Saudi Arabia, as part of the first artist residencies for foreigners launched by the Saudi Institute of Culture (MoC), a clear gesture of openness to the world. Upon landing, I was enveloped in a dry, scorching heat. Even from the plane window, you can feel the immensity of the desert and its lack of humidity. Maximum temperatures in summer, between July and August, can reach 50°C and average temperatures 43°C, dropping to 28°C at night. In winter, usually in January, they sometimes drop just below freezing. Otherwise, they range from 21°C to -9°C.
Riyadh challenges the perceptions of those who visit it. Strategically located in the heart of the vast Saudi desert, at the center of the Arabian Peninsula, in just a few decades it has transformed from a Bedouin settlement into a modern and extremely vibrant metropolis. With a young population that remains connected to the country's Islamic principles, heritage, and traditions, it also embraces the kingdom's future. Although many still view it as a closed city, the truth is that it is in the midst of opening up, thanks to the reforms promoted by the Vision 2030 plan—created by the heir to the throne, Prince Mohammed bin Salman—which seeks to diversify the economy (read: no longer depend on oil) and make the country a global tourist destination like its Gulf neighbors, with all that this entails in terms of cultural openness. One example is the hyper-futuristic Neom (an acronym for "New Future"), a self-sustaining city in the middle of the desert, designed in a straight line, crossed by a silent train, filled with vegetation, and completely eco-friendly.
Although the project is not yet complete, one can imagine its magnitude by looking at Riyadh's skyline today, one of the most impressive in the Gulf. Among the city's most iconic buildings is the Kingdom Centre Tower, a futuristic 302-meter-high skyscraper that, at 200 meters, divides into two symmetrical arms that form an inverted parabola, similar to the letter U. What is distinctive about the opening is that both ends are joined by a 65-meter-long glass bridge, the Sky Bridge , which is illuminated at night, becoming a sort of urban beacon.
Inside, it houses the luxurious Four Seasons Hotel, where Cristiano Ronaldo stayed when he was hired by the Al Nass football club until his mansion was ready; it also houses a shopping mall, where one could see him and his family walking around without any security guards present—or so it seemed.
In the same neighborhood, in the Olaya district, the city's commercial and residential center, is another architectural landmark: the Al Faisaliyah Tower, Saudi Arabia's first skyscraper. It stands 267 meters tall, pyramid-shaped, and was designed by the renowned British architectural firm Foster + Partners. At the top of the tower, a golden glass sphere evokes classic Gulf architecture and houses the exclusive restaurant, The Globe, dedicated to modern European cuisine, as well as a bar with stunning desert views.
These two architectural giants not only symbolize the city's modernity and elegance, but also Riyadh's aspiration to position itself as an international luxury destination. This dual rhythm is felt in the streets. The locals practice it naturally. Thus, a 15-minute walk through any traditional neighborhood can take two or three hours. A curious passerby is likely to ask the traveler where they're from, and they'll immediately go to their house to get a gahwa, the classic Arabic coffee, along with their best cups and exquisite dates to entertain them and make them feel welcome. This country's openness to the world is also reflected in the Saudis' genuine interest in learning about other lands and other ways of being. In every café, restaurant, or market I visited, I met people willing to share stories, recommend places, or invite me into their homes if the conversation lasted more than five minutes.
The separation of men and women in social settings is a cultural norm; it is considered inappropriate for women not to wear the burqa in the presence of others, even in their homes with close friends. For this reason, it is common for groups of men, married or not, to rent an apartment to meet. So one weeknight, they invited me to watch the local football classic (Al Hilal vs. Al Nassr), while they ordered takeout and we smoked hookahs (water pipes), enjoying laughter and conversation. Despite the modernity that pervades the city, its inhabitants still retain the warm Bedouin hospitality.
The dual rhythm that governs life here also takes you along modern highways that connect virtually every neighborhood in just 20 minutes. Although it's easy to get around the different areas on foot, you can get from one area to another through both Uber and its local counterpart, Careem.
I was advised to use this app, and it was definitely worth it; the costs and service are affordable. An average 20-minute trip on any of the highways usually costs between 3 and 5 US dollars.
To understand the historical essence of Riyadh, it's essential to visit its old town, Diriyah, the birthplace of the Saudi dynasty. Upon arrival, the contrast with the modern city is overwhelming; the adobe structures, dirt roads, and palm trees frame a distinctive visual image of the Gulf. This site, declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2010 , is a vivid reminder of the kingdom's origins. Located on the shores of the Wadi Hanifa oasis, Diriyah was the original capital of Saudi Arabia from 1744 to 1818, and Al Turaif was its center of political and religious power. Its ruins evoke the splendor of that period. If you visit in the afternoon, when there are usually fewer tourists—two hours before closing time—you may have the opportunity to chat with one of the archaeologists working on the site day and night and feel the past come alive before your eyes.
Also located here is the Bujairi Quarter, a neighborhood that serves as a gateway to the Old City. It is a significant place because it was the home of Sheikh Mohammed bin Abdulwahab, who laid the ideological and political foundations for the first Saudi state. This neighborhood is not just a point of interest; in recent years, it has been carefully restored and revitalized to attract visitors and locals, offering a blend of history, culture, and modernity.
Additionally, we find the Salwa Palace, one of the most important monuments in the region, which served as the seat of government during the first Saudi state and the residence of the royal family. Diriyah is not only a place of great historical significance, but also a vibrant cultural center hosting exhibitions, events, and activities celebrating Saudi heritage. To delve deeper into its past, the National Museum is a must-see . Located in the King Abdulaziz Historical Center, this museum depicts the history of the Arabian Peninsula, from the earliest settlements to the formation of the modern kingdom. Exhibits include Islamic artifacts, ancient sculptures, reconstructions of key sites, and a stunning monumental-scale model of Mecca.
Another way to discover this city is through one of its most valued senses: taste. Saudi cuisine allows us to discover endless combinations of flavors and is a source of great pride for its inhabitants. Food is a constant dialogue between the past and the future, reflected in the number of Michelin-starred international restaurants (Indian, Japanese, and French cuisines are the most highly regarded and trendy at the moment), as well as in its traditional local dishes. Sitting down to eat in a restaurant like Najd Village is part of the Saudi experience. Many of the tables are set in small private rooms (majlis), decorated with traditional cushions and rugs. Savoring jareesh, a type of wheat porridge with lamb and spices, is a unique experience.
A unique and revealing lunch was enjoying a juice and salad as if it were a Sunday brunch at Little Riyadh restaurant in the Diplomatic Quarter. A trendy spot for those in their 20s: groups of friends on roller skates, iPhones in hand, lots of selfies, and a live DJ playing Arabic-influenced house music.
After a week in the city, I thought it was time to venture into the confines of this desert in search of the quicksands. There are several excursions, but I ended up choosing two for very different reasons, after my local friends advised me which ones were more convenient. Our first destination on a half-day excursion was the outskirts of Riyadh, in the heart of the desert.
The Edge of the World (Jebel Fihrayn), as its name suggests, feels like the end of the world. From the start of the dirt road that would take us to the site, the landscape presented itself as a mix of the inhospitable and the majestic, with arid land and countless dunes and rock formations. We traveled in 4x4 vehicles, bouncing over rocks and crossing vast expanses of desert. The air was dry but fresh thanks to the sunset, which was beginning to tint the sky a deep orange.
In an hour, we reached the cliffs that make up The Edge of the World. Looking down as we approach the edge, it feels as if we're approaching nothingness: just an abyss as far as the eyes can see. Before us stretches an immense valley, sculpted by millennia of erosion, disappearing into the horizon. Beyond, the lands seem to merge with the sky. The silence in this place is absolute; I remember thinking there was a connection between that silence and the rhythmic cycles of Arabic music, called iqa'at, which are patterns that repeat with each beat.
The gentle wind against the rocks created that same pattern, and a deep, almost spiritual feeling came over me as I gazed into the void. As the sun slowly set, the entire landscape changed. The shadows lengthened, covering the desert in golden and reddish hues. In those moments, one realizes how beautiful and, at the same time, challenging nature can be.
After this spiritual excursion in search of more worldly sensations, my friend Abdulah wanted to treat me by taking me to Thumamah National Park, a place where friends and families gather on weekends for picnics, but above all, to ride camels, horses, and rent ATVs.
Although this area of the desert, with its intense orange dunes, is somewhat neglected, the road—a futuristic highway about 40 minutes from downtown Riyadh—cuts through the desert mountains and makes the entire trip worthwhile. Upon arrival, we found plenty of ATV rental stands, where it's advisable to negotiate beforehand. For those who enjoy haggling, it's a pleasure to go from stand to stand looking for the best price. ATV riding through the dunes is guaranteed fun , and if you're brave enough, you'll be able to access incredible panoramic views of the wind-shaped dunes.
In this same landscape where the desert merges with the horizon, there is a presence that feels as old as the dunes themselves: the Arabian horse. For Saudis, horses are not just animals; they are life companions, symbols of pride, and witnesses to a history that dates back millennia. From the moment one sets foot on this land, whether at the airport or in the city, one feels an almost sacred connection between Saudis and their horses. Known for their stamina and refined beauty, their sleek and elegant bodies, their large, bright eyes, and their noble yet steadfast character, they have been celebrated in poetry and art for centuries. The Janadriyah Racecourse is one of the places where this devotion to horses is manifested, with races taking place on weekends between 2:00 p.m. and 7:00 p.m.
However, true devotion to horses takes place outside of public events, in the privacy of the breeders. On ranches, the vast majority of which are located on the outskirts of Riyadh, entire families care for and raise their horses with devotion. They are spoken of as if they were part of the family, treating them as living heirlooms that must be preserved and improved generation after generation.
Abdullah summed it up this way: “Horses have, since time immemorial, been allies in desert survival. They represent freedom and resilience, and reflect grace amid the harshness of our landscape. They are our principal emblem of nobility and honor.”
Those looking to immerse themselves even more deeply in the city's daily life shouldn't miss Souq Al-Zal, Riyadh's oldest market. Unlike modern shopping malls, this market is a maze of alleys where you can find all kinds of goods: from handmade carpets and Bedouin jewelry to spices that fill the air with their intense aromas. There are also Chinese-made trinkets here, such as figurines of Bedouins riding electronic camels, as well as stalls selling old diaries and photographs, where you might find historic banknotes of Saddam Hussein, the iconic Saudi president and dictator.
In the main square, bargaining is a fundamental part of the experience; even if you're not an expert, the Saudis will greet you with a smile as you engage in this exchange. One of the best purchases I made was a bottle of oud, an aromatic resin used in traditional perfumes. The vendor explained that it's one of the most prized products in Saudi Arabia, and when I lit it that night in my room, I understood why: the smoky, sweet aroma filled the space, transporting me back to the desert stories I'd experienced the previous few days.
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