Sant'Agata de' Goti, among quiet alleys, olive trees, and stone houses

In the province of Benevento, in the heart of the ancient lands of Sannio, stands a village that resembles a painting: Sant'Agata de' Goti , nestled 159 meters above sea level, and defined as the “pearl of Sannio”, a title that encapsulates its thousand-year history.

It is a compact and compact microcosm, which proudly preserves its oldest part, built on a tuff spur that drops sheer between the Martorano and Riello rivers, a nativity scene carved into the rock where the narrow streets, churches, and houses huddle together as if to protect one another.

This is where the journey begins, a path that winds through squares, porticos and sudden glimpses that surprise at every step: here is a selection of stops not to be missed .

The historic center

Life in Sant'Agata de' Goti flows slowly along Via Roma , the main artery of the ancient village: the elegant straight road, about a kilometer long, leads the gaze between historic buildings, artisan workshops, churches and sudden open spaces that open up like "scenic pauses".

At the beginning of the route, on the left side, you'll find Piazza Trento with the Church of Santa Maria Costantinopoli , which boasts Baroque lines. Next door, silent and secluded, is the Redemptorist Monastery , which houses cloistered nuns and envelops the square in a suspended atmosphere.

Church of Carmine and Diocesan Museum

A little further on, on the opposite side of Via Roma, lies Piazzetta del Carmine , home to the church of the same name. This church houses a precious treasure, the Diocesan Museum , where, after the devastating earthquake of 1980, numerous works from the churches of the diocese were collected and saved. The rooms recount centuries of sacred art, featuring 17th-century frescoes and 18th-century canvases by various artists.

Returning to Via Roma, the gaze wanders beneath the long porticoes that frame the street and seem to lead, step by step, toward the Duomo. The loggias, commissioned by Saint Alphonsus Maria de' Liguori, are an extension of the Redemptorist Monastery: in fact, some of the shops now opening under the arches were once ancient monastic cells.

The Cathedral

At the end of Via Roma, finally, Piazza Sant'Alfonso opens up where, imposing and solemn, the Duomo dell'Assunta awaits, which along the entire route has done nothing but show itself in the distance.

Built in 970 on the foundations of an ancient pagan temple, it represents the religious and symbolic heart of Sant'Agata de' Goti. Over the centuries, it has undergone transformations that have shaped its appearance, from the 12th-century renovation to the 18th-century additions that gave it its current elegance. The façade opens with a portico of twelve columns with Corinthian capitals that capture the eye with their harmony.

Descending into the crypt, one can breathe in the pristine atmosphere of the 12th century, a secluded space that preserves the most authentic spirituality. Inside, the Latin cross plan with three naves is enriched by side chapels adorned with works of art, among which the exquisite Madonna and Child from 1402 stands out.

As you exit, the facade reveals yet another detail that completes the enchantment: the bell tower , which stands out with its green and yellow majolica tiles that shine in the sun, like precious gems set in the stone.

A view you won't forget

There is a specific spot in Sant'Agata de' Goti that leaves you speechless, that is, the Bridge over the Martorano , along Viale Vittorio Emanuele III, from which the most enchanting view of the village opens up: an expanse of aligned houses , suspended on a tuff terrace that seems to push beyond the edge of the rock to look out into the void.

It's an image that evokes contrasting emotions. On the one hand, a sense of fragility, almost vertigo, as one's gaze loses itself in the abyss below; on the other, an irresistible allure , amplified as evening falls, when the streetlamps along the avenue, along with the illuminated windows of the houses, create a landscape reminiscent of a living nativity scene, suspended between reality and enchantment.

The Castle of Sant'Agata de' Goti

Among the most ancient testimonies, one cannot fail to mention the Castle of Sant'Agata , a tuff building of a not too dark colour, which is immediately distinguishable by its massive, almost squat appearance, which reveals its original defensive function.

Its origins date back to the Lombard era , and over the centuries it has been home to illustrious noble families who have shaped the history of the village. Today, it has been divided into private rooms, but upon entering the main hall, one can still sense the echoes of its ancient grandeur and admire several fragments of paintings, attributed to the artist Tommaso Giaquinto, which recall the refined court life that once animated these austere walls.