Gels and semi-permanents: beware of toxic substances: they will be outlawed starting September 1st.

The new trends are spreading across social media: glittery nails, in trendy shades like mocha musse (Pantone's color of 2025), or themed with decorations that look like tiny works of art. The world of gel and semi-permanent nail polish is potentially endless, a hotbed of creative ideas flooding Instagram, Pinterest, and TikTok. It's a passion that spans everyone from teenagers to women over 40. But starting September 1st , a major change is coming to these highly sought-after treatments, which will impact the business of beauty and nail salons: following the entry into force of an EU regulation , two chemical compounds commonly used in gel and semi-permanent nail polishes that require UV light to harden will be banned . The two substances are now classified as potentially "toxic," industry insiders inform, and therefore can no longer be used.

BANNED SUBSTANCES AND THE RISKS

These are "important developments that directly affect the world of beauty, and nail treatments in particular," explains a focus group from the Mestre-based CGIA. In practice, the European Commission has updated an annex to the CLP Regulation that governs the classification and labeling of hazardous chemicals. Among the substances affected by the changes are: Trimethylbenzoyl Diphenylphosphine Oxide, abbreviated TPO , which is "an essential photoinitiator for the polymerization of gel polishes under UV light"; and Dimethyltolylamine (N,N-dimethyl-4-methylaniline), "a conditioner that improves the adhesion of products such as primers and gels."

Both substances are now classified as 'Repr. Cat 1B'. A European Commission spokesperson explains what this means: "It indicates that a substance is presumed to be toxic to human reproduction , based primarily on animal studies." Substances classified in this way "may not be used in cosmetic products unless a specific exemption has been granted. For the compounds TPO and DMPT, no exemption has been requested or granted." Consequently, she continues, both substances have been "added to the list of ingredients prohibited in cosmetics."

Change should be embraced constructively, according to experts. "In a time of widespread chemical and environmental pollution worldwide—from the radiation we absorb through computers and cell phones to the radiation of a 'changing' sun, to the countless chemicals we come into contact with—we are subjected to various assaults. And when we know something is potentially risky, it should be eliminated," Carla Scesa, chemist and professor of cosmetology, told Adnkronos Salute. "I think both economic and beauty interests can drive research, to find new, safer methods. A boost for everyone. Therefore, bans shouldn't be viewed negatively, but rather as a stimulus to move forward."

WHAT HAPPENS NOW?

The ban, confirmed a European Commission spokesperson, will apply from September 1, 2025, after which date cosmetic products containing the substances in question can no longer be placed or made available on the EU market. "The enforcement of the ban, including any penalties, is the responsibility of the authorities of each Member State. Penalties are established at the national level and may vary from country to country, but must nevertheless be effective, proportionate, and dissuasive."

For the two substances classified as potentially toxic, both their marketing and use in beauty salons are prohibited. Regarding cosmetics companies , Cosmetica Italia reports that it has informed its members with two circulars (one in January 2024 and one in May 2025) about the regulatory change, reminding them of the contents of the ban and also that starting September 1st, any products found to be still in distribution will no longer be allowed to be sold and will have to be withdrawn from the market.

For beauticians , according to a focus on the Mestre CGIA portal, "the most significant aspect is that it will no longer be possible to use these products, even if they already own them, since the European regulation also applies to 'end users,' meaning all professionals who use the substances in their practice. This means that operators will have to verify the composition of the products they use and, if necessary, consult with suppliers for clarification." However, "the legislation does not specify whether non-compliant products should be returned to suppliers or disposed of independently: this aspect" is "the subject of agreements between the parties." Certainly, however, the "TPO-free" era will begin on September 1st.

FINES, SEIZURES, AND CONFISCATIONS FOR BEAUTY THERAPISTS WHO USE PROHIBITED PRODUCTS

Fines, seizures, and confiscations." This is "what awaits beauticians who fail to comply with the legal obligation to prohibit the use of semi-permanent nail polish products containing certain substances," Roberto Papa, national secretary of Confestetica, the National Association of Beauticians, told Adnkronos/Labitalia.

"Honest and professional manufacturers of semi-permanent nail polish should have stopped using the products in production as early as 2023 because they already knew the ban would be in place," Papa observes. "The industry must be very wary of any sales by manufacturers in recent months . There's a risk of buying products at a bargain price that can no longer be used after September 1st."

"The disposal of any stocks of prohibited products that the beauty salon has," he explains, "is the responsibility of the supplier, who is obligated to replace the product with one that complies with the law. It should be noted, however, that the supplier itself risks bankruptcy if it is required to take back large quantities of product. This situation occurs when there are multiple beauty salon clients."

READ THE LABELS AND TRUST SERIOUS PROFESSIONALS

Regarding regulations, ValItalia PMI , an employers' union, emphasizes that "it's important to carefully read product labels and rely on reputable professionals to avoid health risks. The regulations governing the nail reconstruction and decoration sector in Italy, and in particular the use of nail gel, are complex and partly delegated to individual regions. There is a distinction between the activity of a nail technician and that of a beautician." Beauticians can apply nail polish and decorations, but they cannot perform reconstructions that involve lengthening the natural nail. Nail technicians specialize in nail extensions and reconstruction, which includes the application of gel (there is no law prohibiting the treatment on minors, but many professionals prefer not to perform it under a certain age, usually 16 ).

The products used must be safe for human health, registered on the CPNP portal before being placed on the market, and not contain certain hazardous substances, such as TPO. Labels must include a complete list of ingredients, the manufacturer's or importer's details, the batch number, and instructions for use.

ADVICE FOR CONSUMERS

"Certainly," the upcoming bans are "an important health protection measure ," which "must be respected beyond any economic considerations. It will be necessary to verify, and we will be vigilant in this regard, that salons and beauty centers are equally careful. We hope that suppliers will replace these products with TPO-free ones without excessive charges, which would obviously have repercussions on consumers. Consumers should ask the beauty center operator to inspect the product used to ensure it is TPO-free," explains Giovanna Capuzzo, vice president of Federconsumatori.

"For those who use these products at home, it is necessary to check the label that reports the ingredients (INCI) of the product . If you find Trimethylbenzoyl Diphenylphosphine Oxide, TPO or Diphenyl(2,4,6-trimethylbenzoyl)phosphine oxide written, the product can no longer be used."

"Companies," he concludes, "are updating their formulas, but it's important to keep an eye out during this transition phase to avoid encountering illegal products. If you find any irregularities, we recommend contacting the police or the Carabinieri to report any illegal products still on the market."