This island has been closed to tourism for 40 years. And now it has reopened

With an area of ​​2,673 km² (more than ten times that of Elba), Saaremaa is the largest island in Estonia , of which it occupies the western part, and is the third largest in the entire Baltic Sea, after the Danish island of Zealand and the Swedish island of Gotland .

Saaremaa, together with its smaller “neighbors” Hiiuma , Muhu and Vormsi, is part of the Moonsund Archipelago or Western Estonian Archipelago , included by UNESCO among the Biosphere Reserves .

Where is Saaremaa located?

Surrounded entirely by the waters of the Baltic Sea , facing the Gulf of Riga , the island of Saaremaa is today a fascinating natural oasis . Where dense temperate forests of conifers and broadleaf trees alternate with expanses of pines , spruces, birches, junipers, rugged cliffs , trekking -proof woods, marshes and peat bogs embraced by cycle paths, limestone plains and long beaches still little, very little, visited by international tourism .

Saaremaa Island: Off-limits to Tourism for Over 40 Years

A mysterious microcosm, which remained isolated for over 40 years during the Soviet occupation (1946-1989) , when it was transformed into a military base closed to tourism and to Estonian citizens themselves, due to its strategic position near the Gulf of Finland , perfect for remotely monitoring and protecting Soviet St. Petersburg .

A forced isolation that has allowed nature to prosper together with ancestral folkloristic traditions , different from the rest of the country, mysterious legends but also archaeological finds that have rewritten history, starting from that of its ancient inhabitants, the Vikings .

Saaremaa: the island of slow tourism

Sparsely populated (there are just over 30,000 residents), Saaremaa becomes in late spring and summer a favorite destination for Estonians looking for a place to spend a slow-paced vacation in nature. Between water sports and excursions on the trail of numerous wildlife (including seals and moose).

But even in the height of high season , such as in July and August, the island preserves and offers confined spaces where you can enjoy the mild climate and endless expanses of greenery light years away from overtourism and in perfect “ coolcation ” style.

What to see in Saaremaa

From the lively capital Kuressaare , which preserves an intact medieval historical centre and a jewel-fortress built by the Crusaders, to the small churches immersed in nature, where symbols of Christianity coexist with pagan effigies .

And then beaches , nature reserves and ancient lighthouses, which have kept an eye on the coasts for centuries from the incursions from the Baltic. On the island of Saaremaa it is possible to combine historical and cultural visits with nature activities for those seeking an active holiday .

What to do in Saaremaa

With a dense network of hiking and cycling trails for all levels of fitness and pedalling, ranging from one-kilometre walks to the 110 km “Heart of Saaremaa” trail through the Tagamõisa and Ninase peninsulas, the island is a paradise for those looking for an active summer holiday .

There is no shortage of options, from adrenaline-filled kite surfing to SUP , from romantic horseback excursions to kayaking , from theme parks dedicated to the Vikings , with activities and workshops for the whole family, to the mysterious tour of the craters. Those hoping for wildlife sightings will not be disappointed either, the coasts of the island are often home to seals and the hinterland is home to moose, capercaillie, foxes, waders and colourful Steller's eiders, the most photographed by birdwatchers .

What to see around Saaremaa

With around 500 islands , mostly small uninhabited rocks or small floating nature reserves , the West Estonian Archipelago offers many opportunities for a “ day trip ”. From Saaremaa, the largest island in the archipelago, you can easily reach the islands of Muhu , Abruka and Hiiumaa , the second largest in the archipelago.

What to eat in Saaremaa

Sea , forest and farm have always been the official suppliers of the refined and traditional gastronomic scene of the island, accustomed to relying only on its own strength and raw materials for over 40 years of forced Soviet isolation . Even today, despite the fact that new ingredients and more exotic recipes from the “continent” have landed in Saaremaa (those looking for pizza or sushi, for example, will find them on the island), the cuisine and zero-mile ingredients are rigorously protected by the inhabitants and producers.

This can be seen by crossing the threshold of the few supermarkets and shops on the island where the indigenous agricultural and food ingredients are marked with the “Saaremaa Ehtne Toode” (“ authentic product of Saaremaa ”) brand.

The cuisine of Saaremaa

Far from being “simply rustic”, the island cuisine surprises with elaborate and imaginative preparations that aim to enhance the excellence and quality of the raw materials, so much so that it has earned a place in the famous Falstaff Nordic Restaurant Guide , a guide that collects the best of the cuisine of the Nordic countries . Where Saaremaa is present every year with about 12 restaurants.

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