High above Zagreb
Some buildings conceal their true grandeur until you enter them. The boutique hotel »HOH« stands in a slightly elevated position in Gornji Grad, the oldest part of Zagreb. From the street, it appears sandwiched between two squat old buildings. Inside, however, the hotel, which opened in 2024, is spacious and bright: a four-story villa with high ceilings and large windows, offering views over Zagreb, a garden terrace, and a small spa. The nine rooms are also lavishly spacious for a city hotel. Some have balconies. Each room is dedicated to a figure from Zagreb's cultural scene: the writer Ivana Brlić-Mažuranić, for example, who enchanted Croatian children with her fairy tales and was repeatedly considered for the Nobel Prize, or the composer Vatroslav Lisinski, to whom Croatia owes its first opera. An attic room in the »HOH« is named after Lisinski. On cloudy days, rain drips rhythmically onto the slanted windows. Some of his sheet music hangs framed on the wall. Otherwise, the decor is contemporary: cozy dove-blue bedspreads, light wood, and minimalist lamps.
Breakfast shows how great little things can be. There are crispbread bites with smoked fish or cress cream and croissants filled with vanilla cream. The locals know this too: In summer, the terrace is a popular spot for brunch, during Advent, people gather for mulled wine, and from up here, even Zagreb Cathedral seems tiny.
Hotel HOH Jurjevska 4, 10 000 Zagreb, Croatia Tel. 00385/91/784 82 81 Double room from 90 euros/night including breakfast
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